Sunday, February 22, 2015

Ruby Cubed = Triple Love

I started on my first Ruby late last year and due to some binding shennanigans, promptly stalled. You would think that by virtue of editing our patterns I'd be pretty good at following the instructions, right? Erm, this time no. Sewing with silk is not without its challenges but the thought of unpicking was unpalatable enough to cast the project aside until I felt better up to the task.


So the next time I went back to Ruby it was with a different fabric. I was lucky enough to grab a small piece of this swoon-y silk crepe de chine and really, I couldn't imagine using it for anything BUT a Ruby Top. So with my first version still incomplete (and armed with that powerful knowledge of what NOT to do) I managed to nail it second - and sloooower - time 'round.

  

With Ruby Mark II, I was totally inspired by Leith's lovely linen version and later saw Rachel's beauty over on Instagram. I used a navy and black linen/viscose from the stash and lengthenend it by 50cm for a dressier look to wear with heels. I've lightened the pic below so you can see the gingham check a little better.


With two successful Ruby's under my belt in my closet, I now had enough confidence to re-visit Mark I. She's made up in Sunflower Oceano (also available in this yummy colourway) which is a magnificent satin-backed crepe de chine. 

 

Yep, the print is pretty damn lovely but the inside of this fabric matches it every bit in the feel-good stakes.


And while I'm obsessed with all things Ruby, here's a pic of Colette's latest dress version made up in Graffiato Rosso silk crepe de chine.


Ruby love? Yeah, just a little...

Friday, February 20, 2015

Come work with us!


We're looking for super staff in Sydney! Are you passionate, friendly, reliable and committed to ridiculously good customer service? If fabric and sewing and all of those qualities make your world go 'round, we'd LOVE to hear from you! Just email your cover letter (indicating days you're available to work) and CV to tessutifabrics@gmail.com. Must be available to work weekends too! 

Oh, and if you're wondering less about the job and more about the pictured fabric, it's Pick Your Colour - a stunning Italian wool/viscose/cotton tweed - available all stores and online too!


Sunday, February 15, 2015

Tutorial/Video: How to sew a thread button loop

Our Ruby Top pattern has a delicate button/loop closure at the back of the neck, that requires a thread button loop. We have had a few enquiries asking how to do this. So here's the method I use when making my thread button loops which I find a whole lot easier than making teeny tiny fabric rouleau loops!  This method can be used when making delicate belt carriers for dresses too.

For those who prefer a quick visual, check out the video tutorial below (Note: in the video I've used contrast purple thread to help make it more visible):



There's also this step by step tutorial showing you how, please click on images for a closer look:
Sew your button on the right hand side of your back neck opening, you will need your button sewn in place so that you can check measure how long to make your thread loop


Double thread your needle so that you have four strands of thread,

 and insert your needle at the back side of either the top edge or bottom edge of your neck binding and come through the binding edge.

 Sew a few stitches to secure into place, then make a loop with your thread. 

You should now have a loop and the thread coming off the needle.

 
Hold loop open with your thumb and forefinger
                                                   
grab the thread (with forefinger) 


and pull it through the loop to chain stitch in place (check out video tutorial above to see motion)

Repeat threading through loop until your chain stitching is long enough to go around button, 

then secure off by threading right through the loop to end. 

Next sew into place at opposite binding edge to create your button loop. Neaten off on inside of garment.

Now you have one lovely thread button loop! Happy sewing friends x


Friday, February 13, 2015

Two NEW Pant Patterns - Meet Margot and Robbie!

Margot Pant made up in White Wainscot and worn
with our Ruby Top made up in Hanky Black Jin
We are very excited to introduce our two latest patterns - the Margot Pant and Robbie Pant patterns. We've had both in the pattern-planning queue for a while but with the enormities that were our Sophie Top and Sophie Dress, they were unexpectedly delayed. And so because we think these patterns are perfect summer pants, we've decided to release them both while we're still enjoying warmer days. A girl's gotta have options, right?

Margot Pant made up in Black Wainscot
First up, Margot Pant (above). This cropped pant pattern features an elasticised waist and full leg. Simple and comfortable, the design is finished to perfection with a clever side tie detail.



And then there's Robbie Pant (below). This pull-on cropped pant features an elasticised waist and straight legs with patch pockets. Comfortable and cool for summer, the Robbie Pant is perfect for travel in addition to being a quick and easy sew.


Ideal fabrics for both Margot and Robbie are wovens, including linen, lightweight wool, cottons, viscose and crepe (not suitable for knits of stretch wovens). Some suggestions are:


And both pant patterns look great when paired with our Ruby, Mandy, Valerie, Lola and Brigette top patterns. 

Hope you're as happy to see these two as we are!

Sunday, February 8, 2015

My Esther Shorts


Those Melbournians amongst us will know what I'm talking about when I tell you that our summer recently went AWOL. It was a little bit of a lonely and chilly time for us sun-loving folk but - HAPPY DAYS - she's making up for lost time and that forecast is just peachy now.


In anticipation of warmer days, I finally got around to making myself a pair of Esther Shorts in a linen that I found completely irresistible - Hartford Rouge. It really is the most perfect shade of pink. All dusty and rosy and yum.


Welcome back summer x

Saturday, February 7, 2015

My Version Sophie Dress

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Here's another twist to our latest Sophie Dress/Top patterns and my own version. I just love the comfortable and simple flared style of our latest Sophie Dress pattern but I wasn't so sure about the v-neck bodice as I tend to prefer higher neck styles. During the pattern preparation and sample-making stages, we realised that by simply bringing the lapel over and securing it in place with a single button, you can create an interesting assymetrical neckline with diagonal keyhole opening.

If you like Sophie but you're not as fond of a v-neck like me, this is how I went about making this easy and minor change to the pattern. To ensure that the lapel didn't sit too high up my neck I trimmed away some of the lapel shaping, taking off 2" (5cm) at the lapel corner on both the front bodice and front facing pattern pieces and blending it back to the shoulder line. 


By cutting a 1" wide bias strip, I made a rouleau loop in the same linen used. This was cut  2" long and sewn in place on my new front facing.


Position the start of the loop 1/2" down from top edge of lapel shaping on facing. Next, attach the facing to front bodice as per pattern instructions, turning facing towards wrong side of garment.


The facing understitching on my version is only done on the facing side (as opposed to the original pattern instructions where you do it on both sides). 

Finally, I added a lovely toggle shaped horn button. This is purely decorative and I don't need to undo the loop/button to get the dress over my head. 

What do you think? 

Friday, February 6, 2015

TGBSB - Series 3: Episode 1

Not a bad way to start the weekend, hey?

Tuesday, February 3, 2015

NEW - The Sophie Top and The Sophie Dress Patterns!

Sophie Dress in Hartford Rouge
After a most mammoth and intense period of designing, drafting, editing, testing, re-drafting, re-testing and re-editing, they're finished and done and we're super excited to introduce you to our TWO new patterns - the Sophie Top and Sophie Dress!


First up, the Sophie Dress. This flared design features a single lapel v-neckline with drop waistline and centre back seam. The classic style is finished off perfectly with a dipped hemline at the side seam. The pattern includes options for both sleeveless or three quarter sleeves and is suitable in light to medium weight linens or linen blends, wool crepes and tri-acetate/poly blends.

Wainscot Natural
Wainscot Navy (pictured lighter than actual colour)
Wainscot Black

Next up - the top! The Sophie Top is a loose and slightly flared top that features a single lapel v-neckline with a hemline that sits slightly higher at the front.

The pattern includes options for both sleeveless or three quarter sleeves. Like the Sophie Dress, suitable fabrics include light to medium weight linens or linen blends, wool crepes and tri-acetate/poly blends.

Sophie Top in Wainscot Natural paired with pull-on pants (pattern to come) 
made up in Green Sleeves 
As it goes with our entire pattern range, the Sophie Top and Sophie Dress can both be purchased in either hardcopy or digital formats.  If you're interested in purchasing either of these patterns (or both!) in the latter PDF format, there's some very important info we'd like you know. First off, it's BIG! To accomodate all sizes and both sleeved and sleeveless options, each pattern comprises four separate pattern sheets. This means that it if you're considering the Print-At-Home option, you're going to need a LOT of time as well as a LOT of sticky tape. Sheets 1 and 3 are made up of thirty pages, sheet 2 is twenty-five (top version) or thirty (dress version) pages and sheet 4 is eighteen pages. As with all our patterns, if you order the digital version you'll get both the Print-At-Home AND Actual Size Print Copy Shop versions. So to save yourself some - ok, a LOT of time, we're strongly recommending the latter option for Sophie.

And we're hearing you on some recent and valued feedback. All digital purchases will now include a new 'Read Me First' sheet. This outlines which pattern pieces can be found on which pattern sheets and will assist you in printing only what you need. Also, to avoid further paper wastage, we've also noted where blank pages appear on our Print-At-Home versions.


Happy Sophie-sewing friends! x

Friday, January 30, 2015

Summer spots - Thea's altered Vogue 8764

Ever used a pattern for its silhouette but made some pretty major changes to suit your style preference? Here's lovely Thea from Bernina Chatswood who modified Vogue 8764 to make this new sleeveless shift dress.

The style alterations she made to the pattern were adjusting the front neckline, eliminating centre front seam on the bodice and skirt, cutting away the armholes, removing the sleeves, adding mock jet pockets to the front for detail, curving and facing the hemline.

 

Thea's summer frock looks fabulous and made up perfectly in our spotted linen Lucia Spot 100% linen from last summer. This one's sold out but you can take a look at our other linens here.

Check out Bernina Chatswood's Facebook page for upcoming classes and Bernina Club workshops and specials.
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