Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Silk/Lace Ruby Dress

You may have noticed on our Instagram feed that I've been working on a new dress for our Tessuti Sydney Christmas party. As usual, I left things to the very last moment and only decided on what to make two nights before. With that limited time I settled on our Ruby Dress pattern.

I used a combination of lace, silk satin and georgette for my dress. I've held onto a small remnant of this stunning black French lace with double scalloped edge (similar laces stocked in Melbourne and Surry Hills only) waiting for just the right project and - happily - 40cm was all I needed for this yoke. The bottom part of the dress is made up on the matte side of our Black Heavy Silk Satin (similar to this) and I lengthened the dress by 10cm. To join the yoke to the dress I just placed the scalloped edge of the lace over the body of the dress on the front and back and stitched it in place. 

The double folded neck and armhole binding is cut out of Black Silk Georgette. I wanted a different effect for the neck and armhole binding so to do this I folded the georgette bias binding strips in half (as instructed in the pattern) but instead sewed the folded edge part to the neck and armhole edges, then simply turned back the sewn edge towards the inside and understitched on the right side catching the binding seam allowance at the back. I love the raw edge effect (similar to the bind finish on our Silva Shirt Jacket) and the way it frames the lace yoke. I also used the georgette to bind the keyhole at the back neck.

I really love this dress and now finally have my very own LBD which was perfect for our fabulous Christmas party at Da Mario on Saturday night. Such a fun night and as it turned out I wasn't the only one wearing the Ruby pattern! Same dress/same party can be an embarrasing thing but not with Ruby.  I'll show more photos of the other great versions in the next post so stay tuned...

Monday, December 22, 2014

Giallo Cravatta Viscose Pants

Check out Julie's fab pants made up in our Italian 100% Viscose Giallo Cravatta (available only at Tessuti Chatswood store) from shorts pattern, New Look 6100. Julie simply lenghtened and tapered the leg to create a new pant pattern.
Has anyone else successfully lengthened a favourite shorts pattern into pants? Please share in the comments below.

Monday, December 15, 2014

NEW (UPDATED) Gabby Dress Pattern!

Gabby Dress in Butterfly Haven with Raisin Silk Satin ( matt side) contrast panel
Happy days! We're squeezing in one last pattern for the year and it's a NEW and UPDATED version of our ever-popular Gabby Dress

The Gabby Dress was originally released in June 2012, back in the days when we were a little green around the pattern-making gills. We didn't feature any photos in the instructions (oh the shame...) and while the making of Gabby is pretty straightforward, we really wanted to improve on the original version and design given the consistent popularity of this pattern.

So, what's new about this version? We've elaborated on the instructions which now feature step-by-step photographs and have readjusted the sizing to better reflect our existing pattern range.

There's also an option to include an added contrast panel as seen in the images above and below. If you decide to include the panel it's important to note that you must use the same type/weight of your main fabric.

Gabby Dress in Charcoal Room silk crepe de chine (sold out) with Black crepe de chine contrast panel

Hardcopies of the NEW Gabby Dress Pattern are now available online and in all stores.

Monday, December 8, 2014

Pattern Review - Pinterest and Style 4339 (sort of)

Pinterest really is the coolest. This linen dress started life in my head as a completely different style from a completely different pattern and after seeking some pinspiration, this happened. 
My starting point was the fabric - The Line In Between. That I loved it is both unsurprising (linen AND stripes, people. Always and forever) and surprising (RED? WHAT!?). Maybe it's the impending festive season or the abundance of candy canes at this time of year, but I decided to throw my usual monochromatic caution to the wind and push myself a little outside my sartorial comfort zone with this one.
Back to the Pinterest factor where I got searching on striped linen dresses and came across this dress. That's very much my happy summer style but I thought all that red and white might be too much, well, red and white. And then I found this dress and remembered a beautiful and small Nani Iro cotton piece that's lain in my stash for nearly four years since purchasing it from the exquisite Purl Bee in New York. It was perfect - close enough to complement the linen and different enough to provide the ideal contrast. Happy fabric romance *sigh*.
For the bodice I used this 1985 winner - Style 4339 (view 2). The already-cut pattern was a good size too big for me so when doing my initial bodice muslin I moved both centre front and back fold lines over by an inch and took 15cm off the length. I drafted the centre back piece to exclude the V and kept it wide enough so I could slip it over my head without the need for any opening or fasteners. 
For the skirt I wanted just the smallest amount of fullness so I cut my front and back pieces around 20cm wider than their corresponding bodice widths and kept the gathering to sit beneath the centre front and centre back panels only. 
There was a bit of trial and error that happened with the sleeves (especially after they stretched on the bias) but it all turned out ok in the end. I ended up turning them under quite a bit to give just the right amount of cap for the look that I was after.
To finish the neckline (and as an alternative to the provided facings), I used the same double fold bias method that most of our Tessuti patterns use. For the hem, I went with a nice deep one. The linen is lightweight and it's nice to see that extra detail when a fabric is a little on the sheer side. I know the photo below is more dog/less hem but it'll give you an idea and c'mon...that FACE!
This dress was made for our staff Christmas lunch at Supernormal so I'll sign this post off with a pic of our Melbourne Tessuti team. Always counting the blessings that come along with these good ladies who are ALL wearing me-made. And Tessuti made (of course).

Tuesday, November 18, 2014

My Alice Top - Mark 2

Since making it last month, my striped Alice Top has been on a high and heavy rotation. You know that go-to wardrobe staple that is your immediate, feel good and comfortable one? Yeah, that's my Alice. And so I had to sew another one, of course. In (mostly) black, of course.

To break up the black, I wanted a colourful contrast for the front yoke. In my continuing efforts to bust the stash, I found a couple of metres of this Jacquard Trim that I bought a few months ago. At the time of purchase, I loved it but had no specific plan (sound familiar?) but this pattern solved that little problem.

I sewed six 35cm lengths together and blockfused the back with a lightweight interfacing. I also staystiched the edges immediately after cutting out my pattern piece to prevent fraying. The black linen I used is our Hanky Black Jin. As with my first version, I chose not to interface the armhole bands so that they stay all nice and linen-y soft.

While we're on this pattern, I went away with some girlfriends on the weekend for some fine company and a little sewing as well. We brought some Alice love along with us too and here's my mate Manda's gorgeous white version made up in our cotton/viscose Gallen Pattern Weave...

Ah, Alice...you're a keeper.

Monday, November 17, 2014

Pattern Review - Vogue 8993

Here's a look at Georgia's latest make, this dress made up in Vogue 8993 in a lovely stretch cotton, Autumn Botanics from last summer (now sold out). You may have seen this printed cotton/elastane made up by Rachel (Boo Dogg and Me) in this blog post earlier in the year.

If you're keen to try this great dress pattern out, Georgia highly recommends it in a stretch woven! Here are more printed stretch cottons we have available online and in store. 

Thursday, November 13, 2014

Meet our NEW pattern - The Ruby Top/Dress

Ruby Top in Verde Cube Blue silk crepe de chine (available Chatswood and Surry Hills)
Hello readers! Meet our newest pattern - the Ruby Top/Dress. This simple sleeveless design features a high neckline, cutaway armholes and keyhole back opening. The style is slightly flared at the hemline and makes a perfect floaty garment for the warmer months or an easy piece to layer under jackets and cardigans.   

Much like our Libby A-Line Skirt Pattern, we were receiving so many requests to produce a simple top pattern that we decided to heed the call. And once we designed the top we knew instantly that it would translate into a dress so you get two patterns for the price of one! 

The Ruby Top (pictured above) can be worn loose or tucked in. Also important to note is that the dress length (pictured below) is a shorter style and is designed to sit above the knee. If you prefer it longer it can be easily lengthened at the hemline so be sure to check final measurements on the pattern before you cut out your fabric.

Ruby Dress in Beige Dotted Night (lengthened by 4cm)
All the images here show Ruby made up in silk crepe de chines but other suitable fabrics include light to medium weight linens or linen blends, light cottons, silk satins and rayons or viscose.

The Ruby Top/Dress Pattern is now available in all stores in hardcopy format or you can download your PDF print/-at-home/print copy shop versions here! And if Ruby's your style, we hope you enjoy sewing her up!

Friday, November 7, 2014

Anne Klein Vogue V1098 Jacket in spots and stripes

Melbourne regular Jacinta walked in last week wearing THIS beauty! 
The jacket pattern is Anne Klein's Vogue V1098 (oop). She brilliantly combined our Grande Palle (sadly, already sold out) with Licorice Snow Stack - both wool/silk blends - and lined it with an ivory silk satin.
 Check out those buttons and button holes!
Seriously gorgeous.

Saturday, October 25, 2014

Purple and Winter White in McCalls 2401

Perfect for Spring, here's a great shift dress made up by Julie in our lovely Italian stretch Cotton/Elastane 'Purple and Winter White' (only available in Chatswood), similar to  Winter White Garden). The pattern used is classic McCalls 2401.

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Our latest pattern - The Alice Dress/Top

Alice Top in Liberty of London Capel Dark Blue
We are very excited to be releasing our latest pattern - The Alice Dress/Top. This smock style top/dress features a self-lined yoke bodice with shaped armhole bands and a softly gathered body on front and back. The dress version also includes side pockets. Suitable fabrics for the Alice include lightweight linens, lightweight cottons (such as Liberty of London tana lawns), eyelet cotton, rayons, viscose and silk crepe de chine.

Alice Top in Striped Stone D'Ville (100% linen)
Colette's dress version below is made up in Italian cotton lawn The Other Alps. Colette had to allow for extra meterage to match the zig zag striped pattern on the lower dress - 2.5mtrs was used for this size Small dress. The armhole bands were cut on the opposing grain for contrast and the inner yoke and armhole bands were cut in the lighter part of the print.

Alice Dress in The Other Alps (cotton lawn)
For Lisa's linen version below, she used our lightweight Striped Stone D'Ville and cut the front and back outer yokes on the opposing grain to give some horizontal stripe contrast. She used a Liberty (Eleonora, from the stash) for the yoke and sleeve facings.

Because she wanted to retain the softness of the linen, she didn't interface the armhole bands. And for her shorter style, she took a further 10cm off the length.

Happy Alice sewing! We hope you like her x

Saturday, October 11, 2014

Pattern Review: Vogue 1387 (view B)

Always keen to try out a new pattern, Raewin's just finished this lovely blouse in blue silk crepe de chine made up in Vogue 1387 pattern (view B)

This pattern's a great alternative to the classic shirt silhouette and works well in silk cdc. Here too are more lovely creations seen around blogland:

Friday, October 10, 2014

Pattern Review - McCalls 6844

Looking for a stylish, lightweight, mid-season knit cardigan?  Georgia snapped up a remnant of Italian summer knit Bellino and made up view C McCalls 6844 out of the 1.50mtr length. 

These gorgeous Italian knits are now reduced to clear, online and in-store.
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